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Fashion designer Rachel Scott has been making clothes since she was a little kid.
“I’ve always been obsessed with making clothes,” Scott said. “It’s just something that was in my upbringing and my childhood.”
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After studying French and art, Scott moved to Milan, where she began working in the fashion industry.
Scott eventually made her way to New York City, where she continued working in the business until she decided to take a leap of faith and launch her own brand, Diotima.
For the latest episode of The Who What Wear Podcast, Scott shares how she launched her own line, how she became the creative director at Proenza Schouler, and more.
To read excerpts from the conversation, scroll below.
Tell me how you got your start in fashion, and what drew you to creating Diotima?
I’ve always been obsessed with making clothes. It’s just something that was in my upbringing and my childhood.
I used to make clothes for myself to go to parties. Not the same type of clothes I make now.
How are they different?
They were micro. I did grow up in Jamaica, so tiny, tiny skirts and triangles for tops.
I love fashion, and I grew up in the heyday of Vogue Italia, and I was obsessed.
I grew up in Kingston, and I really wanted to get a really broad education.
I didn’t study fashion initially. I studied French and art and then ended up going to Italy and studied fashion there and began my career in Milan and then worked there for a few years and then ended up moving to New York.
Then was just in the industry for a long time and loved my job and loved what I did, but I had a full very typical existential kind of crisis in the early days of the pandemic.
I think I just really needed to find meaning in what I was doing every day.
I think I was just kind of lost, and I wasn’t sure what I was doing anymore and decided that I needed to do something for myself, and that’s why I launched Diotima.
Diotima
Exclusive Embroidered Halter Top
Since we last spoke, you have, of course, become the creative director of Proenza Schouler. Can you share the story of how you landed the role?
It was super exciting for Jack [McCollough] and Lazaro [Hernandez]—this opportunity that they had [to take over Loewe].
I’d never met them before, which is really funny. We knew of each other. I was a big fan. Have always been.
They’re a few years older than me, and so I always looked up to them and admired what they did.
The brand holds such a special place in New York fashion and American fashion in a way that it was just incredible.
It was very much New York, and it’s very much an American brand, but it kind of superseded these ideas of what an American brand should be, so I was sad when I heard that they were leaving their brand that they founded.
I think the guys, obviously, really wanted to make sure that it was going to be in good hands because I can’t imagine how difficult that must be to leave something that you founded and had for nearly 25 years at the time when they left.
They were on a long search, and the current CEO, Shira Snyder, reached out to me and was like, “We’re not sure what we’re going to do. We really love your work. Would you be interested in just like helping us get through this period? Because I know you’re busy with your brand Diotima.” I was like, “Sure, that sounds really fun.”
I went in kind of secretly at the end of early summer last spring and just started supporting the team.
I think within less than a month, Shira was like, “This is actually going really well. Would you like to officially have the role? And I was like, ‘Great, yeah.'”
Proenza Schouler
Trap Flat Ankle Boots in Black
I have a quick lightning round. Most challenging piece you’ve ever designed?
The most challenging things are trying to make things that I would find conservative interesting, like a skirt set.
If I find something conservative, it bothers me, and then I have to find a way, like I said, to make it interesting to me.
Proenza Schouler
Vioni Heavy Sable Single-Breasted Jacket
Current material or pattern or silhouette that you’re obsessed with?
I’m really into animal prints these days.
Proenza Schouler White Label
Juliette Coat
Proenza Schouler White Label
Marion Midi Dress
I always like to know your personal favorite fashion designer working today?
I can give a few. I was dying over the [striped] jeans from Dario Vitale Versace. I really wanted them, and I was like, “I don’t think I can spend $4000 on a pair of jeans that probably will not look good on me,” but I really wanted them.
Maybe Yohji Yamamoto.
Versace
Multicolor Striped Straight Jeans
This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity.
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